Hyderabad — née Bhagyanagaram, the City of Fortunes — has an eclectic personality you’d be hard put to find elsewhere.
Architecture:
In this city, the ancient Hindu architecture and the architecture influenced by the Islamic culture have jostled each other over the centuries and ultimately settled down into their own grooves.
Architecture influenced by the Hindu religion is known for its use of color and sculptures. It, in fact, revels in the portrayal of larger-than-life forms of Gods, Goddesses, humans, and animals and their role in the mythological stories. No Hindu temple is considered complete without its share of intricate carvings and murals all along its walls.
Diametrically opposite to this, architecture influenced by the Islamic culture favors tall towers and huge domes. Engravings on the walls depict austere, yet beautiful, geometric and freehand patterns, since Islam forbids depiction of humans in any shape or form.
It is quite common in this city to come upon a temple with its intricately sculpted images painted in riotous colors just around the corner from a solemn mosque, with its towering turrets and domes.
Clothes:
You can’t leave Hyderabad without losing yourself in some shopping, especially for women’s clothing. It is one of the centers in modern India for eye-catching designs, colors, and fashions in ethnic wear.
A six-yard sari (pronounced phonetically as: saa-ree), a timeless example of “less is more” in terms of exposure of skin, used to be the original choice of apparel for the majority of women in India. Unfortunately, it is not the most convenient of fashions, owing to its several layers that hinder free movement and also the amount of time and skill required to drape it in the proper style. As a result, a sari is losing its popularity as an everyday wear among the modern and younger generations. It has become just one ethnic choice among many, depending on the occasion and time and place.
A chudidar or a Punjabi Suit (a style that is the descendant of the traditions and
trends from parts of northern India mixed with those of the Muslim culture) is the most usual style of choice among women in all of India now. It is easy to wear, cheaper than a sari (usually) and stands up to the busy and demanding life of today’s woman.
Hyderabad has brought the trends from North-and-South and Hindu-and-Muslim cultures together and come up with a chic — yet ethnic – and traditional — yet immensely convenient — wear for women.
I realized on this trip that, these days in shops, there are as many style choices in chudidars as there are stars in the sky. (Okay, may be an exaggeration, but only slightly so.) They come in several prices ranging anywhere from $10/- a set all the way up to hundreds of dollars. Depending on the time, money, and energy you are willing to spend, you will find a style to suit any occasion, however big or small.
Food:
The food in Hyderabad reflects the marrying of not only the two major religions of the region, but also several cultures from around the country (and beyond).
From roadside food vendors’ carts on the streets to small cafés on the curbside (with names like Irani café or Punjabi Dhabha) to posh five-star hotels, each carries a menu that can only be described as a delightful medley of tastes and flavors.
On the same menu, you see items such as: Hyderabadi Biryani, Gosht ka Salan, and Khubani ka Mitha that are examples of the gastronomic gems that are born of the Hyderabadi Muslim culture, followed by true South Indian specialties such as: Dosa-Chutney-Sambhar, Chicken Korma, and Payasam, with Indian-Chinese items like: Chicken 65, Chilly Chicken, and Hakka Noodles nipping closely at their heels, and Aloo Parantha, Kheema Naan, and Ras Malai, mouth-watering delicacies from various regions of North India, not too far behind. (See below for translation/explanation of the names of each of the dishes mentioned here, if you’re interested :-).)
Language:
The same ease and acceptance exists in their general outlook on life among the city’s populace. Telugu, Hindi, English, and Urdu — all with an accent/dialect unique to the region – are only a few of the languages you hear exchanged on an average day in Hyderabad.
For all its journey full-speed ahead into the 21st century and its willing immersion into true globalization – which has brought materialism and dwindling ethics and values with it, unfortunately – Hyderabad (and all of India, for that matter) still retains a flavor, an other-worldliness if you will, on a day-today basis that dates back to centuries of tradition and culture.
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Glossary:
Hyderabadi Biryani: Fried rice/Pilaf using chicken or mutton cooked in a style unique to Hyderabad.
Gosht ka Salan: A spicy curry of goat or lamb.
Khubani ka Mitha: Khubani is Urdu for apricots. This is a dessert consisting of dried apricots in a thick syrup, served over a thick cream or custard.
Dosa: Crepes made out of lentils and rice. One of the most common breakfast items in southern India.
Chutney: A spicy ground mixture made of peanuts or some kind of lentils to go with crepes.
Sambhar: Yellow lentil soup.
Chicken Korma: Chicken curry made using yoghurt and several spices.
Payasam: Traditional rice pudding.
Chilly Chicken: Chicken cooked in Chinese style (steeped in Indian spices) and garnished with lots of green chillies to make your eyes water along with your mouth.
Hakka Noodles: Also an Indo-Chinese specialty, crispy noddles that taste sweet and savory/hot at the same time.
Aloo Parantha: Unleavened bread stuffed with spiced potatoes.
Kheema Naan: Flat bread with several light layers, stuffed with spiced ground goat meat.
Ras Malai: A dessert made of paneer (somewhat similar to cottage cheese) and thick cream.
What wonderful pictures and culture…I especially like the Punjabi Suit, seems like it would not only be comfortable but it would make one feel good as well! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, Laura! Indian clothes are very colorful, so they do make you feel good about wearing them. :)
It feels like I just took a quick trip to Hyderabad during my lunch break.
I would love a plate of that dosa and hot coffee just about now!!
RK
You know, I would, too — like a plate of dosa right about now, I mean :).
Just one word.. YUM !!! The shopping and food are the highlights of all my trips home.. and your post brings it all back at once :)
Food definitely makes a place come alive, doesn’t it? When I think about it, a lot of my childhood memories of places are through food… :)
Hema,
What a treat it is to see these awsome pictures (been in Hyderabad countless times, but your pictures bring such unique perspective, not just this blog but all the other Hyd blogs as well) and it was fun travelling with you. :)
I saw this during lunch and the yummy dosa and mutton made MY lunch look so bleak… Waiting to hear and see more. Keep ’em coming…
Thanks, VP! I’m glad my pictures show you a different side of Hyderabad :).
Everything looks so gorgeous–I love the contrast of the bright Hindu temples and the understated but huge mosques! And after reading the food section, I am really hungry–the dosa and coffee looks amazing right about now!
Thanks, Rowenna! The contrast at every turn is what makes a trip through the city so exhilarating! Just writing about my trip (and sorting through the pictures I took to post them here) makes me want to go back right now :).
I’ve always dreamed of wearing a sari since I discovered by chance a street near the Gare du Nord (Paris, France) that sold mostly sari (and other Indian clothes). Not to mention the Hindi wedding of my dreams! ;-) Maybe I will never wear one, or even try one on, but I’m allowed to dream, right? :-D Besides… you never know! ;-)
That’s right — never say never, Barb! Wearing a sari is not easy, I’ll give you that, but not impossible either! But the end result is worth all the effort that goes into it :).
Good one:)
Coming from a true Hyderabadi, this means a lot to me, SB! :)
I love that you take me on such colorful an’ taste-intriguing travels. I wanna’ see it all. I wanna’ see it all. I found myself wandering from building to building an’ food to food. I hope I did not show my rudeness by carrying some of each of those wunnerful delicacies around with me. I found that keeping ’em handy was less intrusive an’ distractive than running back an’ forth, alla’ time.
I was a little afraid that I was gonna’ show my ignorance by peeking in at the door of the Mosque or asking questions of passersby near the Temple or even wanting to climb up on the statues. I hope you noticed that I was very good, though. It took a great deal of restraint, but I did not wanna’ offend anyone, so I was very careful to keep my hands to myself an’ my mouth shut. Still, you made the visit so very interesting. Thank you.
~ Yaya
I meant to say that I was sure that any of those actions woulda’ caused hurt feelings an’ disrespect for someone. That’s why I worked so hard to be as good as I could. I am sorry ’bout talking with my mouth full, but everything was sooooo tasty that I couln’t help myself. I sometimes forget my manners when I am excited an’ I was VERY excited.
~ Yaya
I woke up to see footsteps all over my page and then I saw your comment and understood it was you, Yaya! I am so happy you explored not only each nook and cranny, but tried out all the tastes and sounds in it too! :-) Good thing you didn’t climb on the staues, though — it’s not done! :) Thank you for not only enjoying the article, but leaving such creative comments — I could actually see you (or the lady in the red wagon) puttering about the page!
Wow!!You reminded me to go visit a few of these places the next time we go to India.Now I have this great craving for kheema naan!!!!
And when you come back from your trip, you should tell me all about it, Latha, so I’ll feel like I’ve been there again. Find an Indian restaurant close by and take care of that craving and more ;-)…
Oh, what a detailed and delicious travelogue. Hyderabad looks like such a beautiful place. I love all the statues and magnificent architecture.
The sari’s look sensational, but I also like the Punjabi Suit would look great too.
And now I am starving hungry. Must go and eat, although nothing will compare to all the delicious food you’ve photographed on your post. :-(
Thanks, Lisa! What are some traditional dishes when it comes to Australia? Would love to find out (via photos and/or writing) on your blog some time! :)
It must be great to lose oneself in a city with such a distinctive cultural identity. What I savoured (how could I not?) the most was the two images of the food you described.
Great post. I enjoyed it very much.
Greetings from London.
It is a wonderful experience, Cuban! I’m glad you enjoyed the images of food — just as I do on your “Food, Music… Ad Infinitum” articles!
You are 110% responsible for my growling stomach. That food looks so delicious! And I love the saris. They’re just like jewels in the form of fabric!
Thanks, Lydia! Yes, there are so many varieties of saris these days, each better than the last, that it’s an exercise in restraint to choose one. :)
Thank you, Hema! I love that you are sharing India with us. The pictures are wonderful and your descriptions are outstanding. It makes me want to visit…
I’m glad you like these travelogue posts, Sharon! If you ever visit India, you won’t regret it. That much I know! :)
Love the pics, Hema! Especially that one of Shiv and Parvati. Took my breath away.
I’m missing the lovely warm Indian weather right now.
Jai
Jai, the first time I saw this sculpture up close, I stood gaping at it. Literally! It is beautiful to the last detail. I came upon many more of these big statues, on my road trip this time, following you for some time like the moon :).
Love the pics and the food Hema! Makes me want to cook something now- @ 11 pm in the night:-)
Best,
Suma.
So what did you cook, Suma? Would we get to see pictures of that on your blog? ;)
Another fun and educational post! Super interesting, and the photos are beautiful!